Brad CawnAug 27, 20213 minReview: Harbor House InnThat old saw that smell is 80% of taste could use an audit: it doesn’t quite account for the role imagination and projection increasingly...
Brad CawnApr 25, 20214 minReview: Brass HeartAs Michelin awards its stars for 2021, the Uptown restaurant finds its center Brass Heart defines itself as a “post-modernist”...
Brad CawnMar 23, 20213 minA Few More Words on Ever and What Fine Dining Really NeedsThe first bite I took of Curtis Duffy’s food back when he was at Avenues changed my life. Bite seems too crude a word: my mastication was...
Brad CawnMar 15, 20218 minEver, Porto, and the Murky Future of the Tasting MenuA review of the restaurants Ever and Porto, and a reflection on fine dining's emerging identity crisis post-pandemic.