Brad CawnApr 25, 20214 minReview: Brass HeartAs Michelin awards its stars for 2021, the Uptown restaurant finds its center Brass Heart defines itself as a “post-modernist”...
Brad CawnApr 6, 20215 minThe Next Generation of Chicago Indian Restaurants EmergesReviews of upstarts revitalizing subcontinental cooking There was a moment there in 2019 when Chicago looked as if it was on the...
Brad CawnMar 23, 20213 minA Few More Words on Ever and What Fine Dining Really NeedsThe first bite I took of Curtis Duffy’s food back when he was at Avenues changed my life. Bite seems too crude a word: my mastication was...
Brad CawnMar 15, 20218 minEver, Porto, and the Murky Future of the Tasting MenuA review of the restaurants Ever and Porto, and a reflection on fine dining's emerging identity crisis post-pandemic.
Brad CawnFeb 11, 20212 minBites: The Pastrami Sandwich @ Jeff and Jude'sReview of the most difficult--and best--sandwich in Chicago.
Brad CawnFeb 2, 20214 minDoes Local Restaurant Criticism Even Matter Anymore?Ensuring that it does means understanding why it doesn't. In restaurant journalism no one can hear you welp. You can’t hear keystrokes,...